Arrival in Nuuk!

Winds southwest, a gale of 40+ knots. Thank goodness we’re in the harbour! Arrival in Nuuk was nothing if not spectacular. All day we’d been nearing the strange blue lumps on the horizon. What could they be, that didn’t move in a world of perpetual motion? Sweet southern winds sped our passage, but the sea…

Bound for Greenland, Day 6

Winds northwest, 8 knots. Good visibility, partly cloudy, and cold.
57˚48’ N, 51˚28’ W at noon We have seen no boats for three days, but it’s nice to know we’re still not the largest thing sailing these seas. A blue whale just passed us, lazily surfacing its elegant back, which alone outstripped our 47-foot yacht. The…

Bound for Greenland, Day 5

Winds southeast, 17 knots. Excellent visibility and clear skies. This morning my watch began at 3am, and we witnessed a yellow crescent moonrise closely followed by a golden sunrise. Every day now, the sun rises 30 minutes or so earlier, and tonight for the first time, it was never truly dark. We are past the solstice, but our…

Ice Behind (For Now) Greenland Ahead

Has it been only three days since we left land? Our watch schedule, four hours on-four hours off, breaks each day into three 8-hour cycles. Off-watch hours are spent belowdecks eating, washing, hanging clothes to dry, and getting as much sleep as the boat’s motion allows before the cycle begins again. Hours on watch can be wet, cold,…

Expedition 2014!

Downtime aboard a boat, especially when forced by conditions, is a time for chores and reflection. So this week, as we sit in beautiful Lewisporte awaiting the ice to clear enough that we can reach our leaping-off point of Twillingate, we’re catching up on a few last minute boat projects. But mostly we’re dreaming of the…

Launch Day!

Ashore – on the hard, as sailors would say – a sailboat is not just dormant. She is bulky and inelegant, graceless and hulking. But she is also full of promise. All potential energy awaiting wind and waves to be made kinetic. So, you can imagine our thrill – not to mention hers – when…

Skippers Update: Worst Ice Year in Decades!

Arriving in Lewiswporte, Newfoundland a few weeks ago, we have heard numerous stories from the locals about their epic winter. Most agree, “between the jigs & the reels”, it was one of the coldest, stormiest winters for a very long time, with record snow falls and heavy sea ice. Hundreds of icebergs linger offshore, and…